10 June

Today was wet again. As we were about to leave we got into a conversation with the people staying in the room next door and who are also motorcyclists. Neil and Marg have a Harley Davidson Road King, but had chosen instead to take their car for this trip. They politely described us as "brave" for riding in such bad weather, when it seemed to us "stupid" was more accurate. This north-west corner of the world has so many lakes, rapidly flowing rivers and green vegetation. 2+2 = precipitation, lots of it. Summer comes late here. July and August would be a better time for a visit by motorbike perhaps. People here look forward enthusiastically to "Thursday" being a good weather day in the week.
We chatted for quite a while with Neil and Marg about places to visit and roads to ride before it was time to get back on the road.

In spite of the weather we decided that rather than head directly across the continental divide on Canada 1, we would take the route recommended by the Canadian Customs Officer we met a few days ago. This took us 60 miles southeast on Canada 96 to Radium Junction where we refuelled the bike and ourselves. French and English was posted on all signposts.

A few miles north on Canada 93 we entered Banff National Park where the road passed through a narrow opening in the rocks towards the Radium Hot Springs.

The Customs Officer who recommended the route said we would most likely see some of the Canadian wildlife on this road, and Wanda's sharp eyes spotted a longhorn sheep high on a hill above the hot springs.

Further up the road, she also spotted a mother bear and cub playing in the grass. Seeing the wildlife was an ample reward for taking the longer road. The rain was intermittent. Chris had just made the comment that these Canadian Rockies did not really exist when three seconds later as we flew around the next bend, there they were. We got our first, breathtaking views of the Rockies, hiding as best they could in the low clouds. Hugh, jagged rocks still with a cloak of snow, leapt skyward. Unlike other passes however, the road in the valley was almost level, very smooth  and in places a double lane, two-way highway with the highest rocks we have seen on either side. Needless to say it was also cold and the rain prevented photography.

We crossed the Divide at Vermillion Pass, at 5382 feet altitude.  These rocks were well above us. Canada 93 soon merged with Canada 1, which became a high speed free way all the way into Banff. This is a drop-dead gorgeous alpine style city, squarely aimed at tourists and, like all alpine cities, it has prices to match. (We had lunch there at an upmarket burger joint where the basic burger cost 13 dollars but it was done just the way you like it.)

The run from there to Calgary was fast, long and boring. The rain continued to pour down and the temperature dropped to 47 degrees Farenheight (5 degrees Centigrade).

We rode direct to the BMW dealer to confirm our appointment for tomorrow morning, and see if they had replacement tyres for our bike, as the originals are getting pretty badly worn. The back tyre was available, which is in greater need of replacement. The front will be done at a future stop.

We went looking for a motel close by, but everything was heavily booked because of a big Petroleum Conference taking place this week, and prices were inflated to match oil revenues. After numerous efforts travelling to various motels in traffic that was heavier than the rain, we settled (out of sheer exhaustion and cold after travelling 244 miles today) for the cheapest we could find. It was still the most expensive motel we have stayed in on this journey - by a margin of 50%. The sheets were luxurious however.