A short way out of town we decided to stop for coffee at a little diner. The coffee was great, the eggs, hash browns and toast, too. These little diners offer exceptional service and hot coffee.
For the next 17 miles we rode with one eye on the road and one on the computer. The BMW Owners Manual warns that the miles to empty is only an approximation and should not be relied on as other than a guide. It is also strongly advised you not allow the tank to run dry.
We briefly stopped to check our map. We had already travelled 36 miles since we started, and there was no sign of Quinault Lake - let alone Amanda Park. The further we rode the more steadily it rained, as if to compound our misery. The vegetation here was pines with thick undergrowth. It would be impossible to traverse without a machete although the Elk are supposed to to keep some areas clear. If you found yourself in the middle of it the chances of getting out would be slim. Thank goodness for the excellent roadway.
It was with great relief we got to the service station at Quinault Lake a pretty place surrounded by heavy forest growing right up to the waterline. Our computer was reading 13 miles to empty – too close for comfort.
The road ran along the side of the Hoh River, a wide, swiftly flowing, rocky stream that descends from Mount Olympus. It was strewn with timber brought down by the river.
We had earlier decided we would stay in the town of Forks for the night. When we got there every motel seemed booked out. We finally found a small motel on the outskirts of town and got the last available (tiny) room at an outrageously expensive price. Single beds, no wireless Internet, no coffee maker, fridge or microwave...
Apparently the situation was due to two factors: it was a holiday weekend, and this town was where a movie called Twilight was filmed, and apparently lots of people come here just to see where the movie was shot - and the town is cashing in.You could almost hear the cash registers (Ca-Ching! Ca-Ching!)