Monday, May 17, 2010

Murphy's Law: No optimism ever goes unpunished

Just yesterday we were so pleased to finally be back on schedule. Today we left San Francisco across the Golden Gate Bridge under leaden skies, with the weather forecast giving a 90% chance of showers to the north where we are heading.

We got caught behind a slow vehicle that didn't seem to understand what turnouts are for (unusual for Californians), and we followed it for longer than we cared. Just a dozen miles after we left, the showers started, so it was into wet weather gear. This is basically a big plastic bag, with elasticated cuffs and a long zip at the front with a few fancy flaps to seal it. It is every bit as comfortable as it sounds, especially on warm days when it is indistinguishable from a sauna.

Highway 1 north of San Francisco is prettier and less windy than the southern majestic Big Sur stretch of  highway. Once clear of built-up areas the road winds and twists its way along the coast, through beautiful valleys, along estuaries and through dark and foreboding forests... and it seems to go on forever. Even with the rain it was incredibly beautiful.

Unlike Peter's place, the coast is more accessible. If you built there you would not feel as if you were living on the edge of the earth, (especially when the mist comes in and you can't see the bottom - breathtaking and scary). There is a large variety of landscape. Just stunning all the way up. There was a wonderful looking place for sale. Sigh!

The further north we travelled, the heavier the rain, and it had seemingly set in for the day. We stopped at Point Reyes Old Station Cafe (an old world feel with up to date, friendly service)  for brunch and a break before heading off again into the rain.

Between the tight corners and the weather the going was quite slow in places, yet when the road straightened out (only ever so briefly) we could easily maintain 50 - 60 mph.

We continued on again until I tired, and eventually stopped at the Stewarts Point Store, (with a variety of home made delicacies) a timber structure dating from 1868, with many of the old signs advertising long lost brands. There was even one poster warning the ladies that "Women in low cut dresses will be looked down upon". It also had a 19th century silver dollar set into the counter by the cash register, a disappointingly modern appliance. The coffee was hot and strong, and we enjoyed the break. We must have looked like a pair of drowned rats because the people working there recommended we stop 13 miles further up the road at Gualala - especially since tomorrow's forecast was looking much better.

As we left the store I was feeling quite refreshed, but our progress was slow (so slow I had to keep pulling over to let cars pass). As the weather closed in we could no longer see much of the views, so we took their advice and found the comfortable and charming Gualala Country Inn at 2:30 pm. The spring flowers are gorgeous. We booked in and turned on the heater to warm ourselves and start drying our gloves and boots.

We only got half as far as planned today, so now we are 100 miles behind schedule after just one day on target. B*@@#r!

To sum up our day in just three words: rain, rain, rain. Or does that only count as one?

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