Heading to Grand Canyon

A friendly rider we met at the Rodeway Inn in Page.


We started off in Page, Arizona, in a promising, if cool 54°F, and headed for the cloudy sky in the distance. The landscape was low desert plants, layered red or white rocks in unusual shapes and orientations, with beautiful sedimentary red and white cliffs in the distance. (The landscapes throughout the “Four Corners” states has been exciting and exceptional. Geologically, there is nothing else quite like it.)

About 30 miles south of Page we hit bad weather, and were quickly into our wet weather gear. After riding a further 40 miles in the pouring rain we stopped at Cameron, which has the oldest trading post still operating in the area. We fuelled our bike and visited the trading post, a beautiful building with numerous high quality Indian arts and crafts. It was a much needed stop as we had travelled through some pelting rain at reduced speed, concentrating on oncoming headlights, and making the journey longer and colder than usual.

Leaving civilisation, we had to make a decision about whether or not we would go to the south rim of the Grand Canyon. We could go straight on to Flagstaff into clearing weather or turn right into ominous clouds covering the Canyon. We chose the Canyon in the hope the weather would improve tomorrow.

As we passed empty shelters, basic timber structures to protect Indian jewellery sellers from the heat, Wanda suddenly decided that she wanted some jewellery. Only one woman was at her stall in this weather, surrounded by puddles, gravel and mud. We struck a highly satisfactory deal for some lovely necklaces. She knew her stones well and described each one in detail.
By the time we entered the Grand Canyon National Park our gloves were cold and wet. It was constant, heavy rain for 35 miles. The park ranger at the entrance informed us that our planned stop was only a coffee shop. Accommodation was another 26 miles on. That would take almost an hour in these conditions. On the way we saw glimpses of the canyon rim, but nothing else was visible in the cloud cover that filled the canyon. The visitors' centre directed us to a tourist complex with accommodation, cafe, and a supermarket with a good selection of foods.

It was essential to become warm and comfortable as soon as possible. Of course the weather cleared up as soon as we had settled in...