Friday, October 1, 2010

Rock(et)ing along on the C&TSRR

Rated as one of the top 20 train rides in the worlf, the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad is America's longest (64 miles) and highest (11,500 ft) narrow guage railroad. It usually runs from Chama in New Mexico to Antonita in Colorado, but a fire damaged a trestle bridge last June and until it is repaired the trains can only run from Cumbres Pass to Antonito.
We had to be at the station in Chama at 8 am for the bus ride to Antonito. We set our alarms for 6:30, but were both wide awake well before then. We arrived at the station at 7 am and found the Boxcar Cafe open and serving breakfast.


After a bus ride to Antonito, which itself was a spectacular ride, we boarded our train for the trip up to Cumbres Pass. The train left on fairly flat ground and wound its way across the desert avoiding eroded drainage areas. Having a guage of only 3 ft. the train rocked along at the heady speed of 18-20 mph. The benefit of using a narrow guage is that the bends in the tracks can be tighter than for standard guage - which is helpful when laying tracks through mountainous terrain. What impressed us was that the entire 64 miles of track were laid in just 9 months - with nothing more than manual labour, mule carts and black powder. The train went up incredably high and teetered on cliff edges which had the most incredible views, made more beautiful by the golden aspens.




We soon crossed the Colorado-New Mexico border for the first of ten times and the train began its climb through hilly desert country up the 1% grade towards Cumbres Pass. Along the way we passed many interesting features of the landscape and the railroad, all pointed out and explained by Bob, our docent for the trip.



Pronghorn sheep scared off by the train.
The gold leaves were spectacular. Volcanic rock stood above the surroundings.
Although we had comfortable seats in a closed carriage, we spent much of the journey standing in the open car that allowed more expansive views.


The tracks wound their way inexorably up the mountains on the north side of El Rio de los Pinos (the river of the Pines) valley. As we entered the spectacular Toltec Gorge we were 600 feet above the river.


The train stopped at Osier where the Antonito bound train was already waiting on a siding. Here we were fed a hearty lunch, with a choice of meat loaf, turkey or soup and salad. We were not surprised to find the queue for turkey longer than the other two lines combined. The staff there have to serve several hundred people from two trains in a fairly short time. They did a magnificent job, and the food was really very good - and filling. Here we met Lyn and Chris from Dorset, England, having a great holiday. They are train enthusiasts and are riding a number of historic trains over here.
From Osier the train continued its relentless 1% climb. El Rio de los Pinos flows down the valley on a much steeper course and when we eventually crossed it the tracks were only a few feet above the crystal clear water.

After negotiating more tight 180 degree bends our train eventually reached Cumbres Pass at 11,500 feet.
At Cumbres Pass we had to catch a bus back to Chama, due to the fire damaged trestle.
Arrriving back at 3:30 pm, we immediately set off west for Farmington, our overnight stop. The 100 mile ride was into the lowering sun which was no fun. The landscape was now a contrast to the mountain area the train went through. We were now taking a ride through dry land with huge rocks and scrubland. Much of it was totally unpopulated. You felt alone.

It was nearly 6 pm by the time we booked ourselves into a motel. We wasted no time finding a supermarket to buy dinner. The sun was setting as we returned to our motel. Farmington is a tidy, clean, dry city set in a desert.


There is a large river through this area but no large trees except through one of the main streets. People eagerly wait for the cool of the evenings for social activities.

The days are really getting much shorter, and in general the days seem to be cooler. Being at altitude also takes the edge off the heat. It was 46 F when we left the motel (at 8000ft) this morning. It was pleasantly warm at Cumbres Pass, but by the time we reached Farmington - back down in the desert, it was 92 F.

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