This young man works very hard to keep this place going. Many people were attracted to the area for its remoteness. The trailbike riders we met last night, loved the area and return regularly. We heard them leave at daybreak this morning prepared with GPSs and specialised equipment.


First priority was to fill the bike - even at these prices. Isolated places seem to be more expensive as importing of goods is far more difficult. There are few luxuries except for a clean bed and the restaurant, which fortunately does a good meal.

The road west of Panamint Springs, California was a squiggly red line on the map. The barman had told us yesterday that the 12 miles to the top of the pass was a favourite with motorcyclists. Although this was in the opposite direction to our destinatiion, we rode up and back before breakfast, to build up an appetite for food and more adventures in Death Valley.


At breakfast we shared a table with two other bikers who pulled into the cafe at the same time as we did, and swapped yarns before heading our separate ways.

Our route was west on 190. The road from Panamint Springs rose steeply as it crossed Towne Pass at nearly 5,000 ft before descending into Death Valley, taking us back through Stovepipe Wells and on to Furnace Creek.

Our first stop was a few miles beyond Furnace Creek at Zabriskie Point. A short climb from the car park leads to an overlook surrounded by barren, yellow, eroded landforms. Through a gap in the hills we could see across Death Valley. An incredible formation.

Further east on 190 we turned off to Dante's View. The road initially was fast and fairly straight, but towards the higher sections became tighter and steeper, culminating in a short stretch of tight bends and 12% grade that required 1st gear. At 5475 ft above sea level we were rewarded with panoramic views of the southern parts of Death Valley. Directly below us but hidden under the cliffs was Badwater. This was amazing and a must see for anyone in the area. You begin to realise how vast this area is. (These four photos join to make one view.)

From the car park there is a trail we followed for a short distance to take in some other perspectives of the landscape. Far below we could see the road we had travelled two days earlier. Once back on 190 we were soon out of the National Park.

We have greatly enjoyed the last three days. Death Valley is so beautiful and seducive. Like a siren's song it attracts you and draws you in, but at the same time you sense it is a dangerous and unforgiving place. Both heat and rapid floods make it this way.

We continued to Death Valley Junction, a motley collection of decaying buildings. Putting up some resistance is the Amargosa Hotel with the "Amargosa Opera House" and a cafe. We stopped there for lunch. The staff were a cheery lot, all dressed in Halloween cotumes and make-up.

As we moved on there were beautiful desert scenes.


Our destination for the night was Pahrunp in Nevada, a vast, sprawling, dusty town in the middle of the desert. On a peak high above and behinfd the town the first winter snows have fallen. Careful watering make parts of this town feel like a small oasis.