Through the White Mountains

Despite it raining most of the night we left Littleton (New Hampshire) in perfect conditions and headed south retracing our route.  We were looking to explore some great motorcycling roads, and turned towards Sugar Hill on 117. The road south from there through Easton took us to North Woodstock, a delightful holiday resort. at the western end of the Kancamagus Highway. This whole area seems to cater for family holidays with plenty of activities to keep children busy. They seemed to love the waterslides, pools, canoes, mini golf, etc. We stopped for coffee and met a group of bikers in the car park. When they heard our accent they said they were pleased to meet us because they were travelling with an Englishman and needed a translator. I said I was sorry - "I don't speak English."

We met their English friend Paul and found out we could understand him. We ended up chatting for quite a while about our mutual motorcycle journeys, where he came from and how he migrated to the US.

Just behind Woodstock, near this car park, we could hear the sound of excited voices and rushing water. Children were having enormous fun with floating tubes, going down a natural slide in the rocks. Apart from other relaxing water activities we saw several of these river access swimming areas on our journeys.

We had driven the Kancamagus Highway when we were here in 2006, so we opted instead to ride north up Route 3 through Franconia Notch to Bethlehem, which is just a few miles from Littleton where we started. The road led us through the beautiful White Mountains. They seemed even more beautiful than when we were here a few years ago.

We continued onto 302 through Crawford Notch and into Bartlett where we stopped for brunch. Again, we were struck by the beauty of these mountains. We then travelled south on the Bear Notch Road. This was a winding road just made for motorcycling. The traffic was thankfully light. To be specific, there were no RVs, SUVs  or trucks. It's no fun following these but when you meet one coming the other way it's not an issue, unless, that is, they want more than their two thirds of the road.

Bear Notch Road emptied out onto the Kancamagus Highway which took us into Conway. We turned north through miles of shops and motels and bars. Finallly we took 16 north, heading for our overnight destination of Gorham but not before turning off onto the Mount Washington Auto Road. In 2006 we could not drive up because of the weather conditions at the top: today there were dark clouds skimming the mountain, but the road was open. We paid the $22 toll and were told the temperature at the top of the mountain was 49 F - 30 less than at the bottom. Other motorcyclysts were heading for the top in short cotton sleeves.

The road was steep and narrow. There is a 20 mph speed limit and a no overtaking rule. Most of the way there is no shoulder or guard rail and the slopes are precipitous. It was not really a problem for the Beemer until we came up on the back of a 4WD trundling up at 10 mph. The Beemer was never designed for going so slowly, especially not uphill. It was barely possible to keep going: the revs had dropped to about 1500 - and I really can't believe how it continued to progress when it was so far below the power band. Just as I thought I could not continue, the 4WD pulled off into a turn out and let me pass.

The higher we climbed, the darker the skies and the stronger the winds. When we got to the cloud line. we were seriously thinking of turning back down. (I was seriously thinking of walking the eight miles down but I bit my lip. It was difficult to look down especially on the steep, dirt track section..-Wanda).

Looking down.

 A couple riding on another BMW coming down pulled over and chatted to us. They said we should go on - the top was just a few hundred yards further along above the cloud.

We took their advice and rode on into the clouds that were whipping across the landscape. The sight at the top was quite surreal - it was difficult to see anything. We stumbled upon the original Hotel at the top and had a look through.

It was then necessary to clambour up the steps and across the uneven rocks that took us to the highest point.
We were nearly blown off the mountain as we had our photo taken by a kind man who could barely balance himself.

The weather cleared a little while we were there, and we saw glimpses of the valley far below. The ride down was much easier than going up - we just put the bike in first or second gear depending on how steep the road was, and let it run on a trailing throttle.  Below the cloudline the view was forever.

We found a motel for the night, with a room about 20 feet back from the highway and listened to all the trucks clattering, thumping and roaring past all night.